Ross Clarke-Jones lives in a state of perpetual readiness. The legendary Australian big wave surfer has become as adept at predicting massive storm swells as he is at riding them.
“During the Australian winter I live in Torquay (Victoria) and I’ll chase swells across the southern hemisphere to South Africa, Chile, New Zealand, Tasmania or Western Australia,” he says.
From December through to March the thrill-seeking 42-year-old relocates to Hawaii or Northern California to pursue waves which measure well over fifty feet high. It’s here, in the NE quadrant of the Pacific Ocean, the world’s largest waves are found.
“The biggest waves I have ever seen were at a place called OUTSIDE LOG CABINS. There was a day in 1998 when I rode a few waves that were in the 80 – 90 foot range. I haven’t come across bigger waves before or since,” he says.
Clarke-Jones says it’s the speed you travel at which distinguishes the feeling of riding an 80 foot wave. “You feel like a space shuttle re-entering the atmosphere. It feels like the fibreglass could peel off your surfboard.”
The surfing at Jaws that day further enhanced his reputation as one of the planet’s best big wave surfers. This led to a sponsorship with Red Bull Energy Drink, a company he has represented since 1998.
“These last ten years with Red Bull have been the most enjoyable times in my career. Red Bull has given me the opportunity to plan surf trips to really unique parts of the world that are not necessarily known for their surf.”
One of the more famous of these adventures was to the South American jungle to surf a tidal surge up the piranha and crocodile infested Amazon River. “I still get people referring to me as the guy who surfed up the Amazon,’ he says, laughing.
Other thrill heavy assignments include riding a typhoon swell in Japan, surfing off South Africa’s Cape of Good Hope and braving the notorious Shipstern’s Bluff in Tasmania.
Clarke-Jones’ latest project is a program for Discovery Channel called Storm Surfers, in which he co-stars with his good friend, two times World Surfing Champion, Tom Carroll.
Due for release on December 17 2008, Storm Surfers tracks the pair as they attempt to pioneer a wave called Dangerous Banks which lies off the North West coast of Tasmania.
“It was the wildest and most difficult wave I’ve ever attempted,” says Clarke-Jones. “It was a hard spot to access and we were dealing with gusting onshore winds and 30 foot waves rearing up from all directions.”
Storm Surfers promises a scientific examination of big wave surfing. “We calculate the exact speed you can reach on a surfboard, the impact forces involved in a bad wipeout and explore the research behind surf forecasting.”
Born on the NSW Central Coast in 1966, Clarke-Jones learnt to surf at the age of ten and soon discovered he had a passion for riding waves which terrified surfers twice his size.
He developed his big wave chops at Terrigal Haven but soon outgrew its potential. “I was never scared in the ocean as a kid. I always wanted it to get bigger,” he says.
Clarke-Jones had enough skill in small waves to compete on the ASP World Tour for 12 years and finished as high as 24th in the world. But it was obvious his real passion was for riding big waves.
At the age of 19 he made a lasting impact in the Billabong Pro which was held in 20 foot waves at Waimea Bay in Hawaii.
The surf was so big several competitors refused to paddle out for their heats. Clarke-Jones didn’t hesitate and impressed many with his fearless rookie performance.
Waimea Bay would later be the site of his biggest surfing victory. In 2001 Clarke-Jones won the prestigious Eddie Aikau Big Wave invitational event, the first non-Hawaiian to do so.
“The Eddie”, as it is known, only runs when the surf is 20 foot or bigger and only 24 surfers are honoured with an invitation to compete.
“Winning the Eddie is the highlight of my competitive career. It’s much more than a competition – there’s a lot of prestige and respect associated with it. It changed my life really,” he says.
In 2003 a documentary of Ross Clarke-Jones’ remarkable life, The Sixth Element, was released to popular acclaim.
The film is narrated by Hollywood legend Dennis Hopper and includes the startling detail that Clarke-Jones’ great-great grandfather (Sir William Howell) was an explorer who married a princess from a Borneo head-hunting tribe.
Clarke-Jones says that this colourful family background may partly explain his own adventurous nomadic existence. “I can’t stay in one place for long, I get itchy feet.”
Unfortunately, an exciting life chasing big waves around the world doesn’t come without a price. Clarke-Jones’ injury list is almost as notorious as his big wave achievements.
It includes ten fin chops, one broken nose, a fractured spine, separated and fractured ribs; a snapped bicep, pulled trapezium, busted shoulder and several near-drownings.
On October 13, 2008 Clarke-Jones had neurosurgery to repair a reoccurring neck injury which has been hampering his surfing exploits (although you wouldn’t know it), and is now in recovery.
“I snapped off a bit of my disk which has lodged in my nerve canal and affected my left arm. I haven’t had full power in my arm all year and it’s really been bugging me.”
Clarke-Jones had the operation during the Australian spring because it’s the leanest time of the year for big waves anywhere in the world.
The surgery is unlikely to slow him down for long though. “People ask me if I’m getting sick of riding big waves but I still get a buzz out of it. I still have the need to do it.”
His surfing goals include discovering more big wave spots, winning another Eddie at Waimea Bay, riding a 101 foot wave and making more exciting and interesting film and TV segments about big wave surfing.
“I’ve been on stand-by for a 100 foot wave for twenty years. I’m ready for anything.”
To enquire about the availability of Motivational Speaker Ross Clarke-Jones speaking at your next event within Australia or overseas please contact Nick Fordham )