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By John Fordham

Kangarilla Road winemaker Kevin O’Brien didn’t have to look beyond one of his regular dining mates to come up with a label for one of his top-rated McLaren Vale shiraz.

The Devil’s Whiskers Shiraz, which he introduced last year, refers to the red marks left above the upper lip following a heavy session drinking red wine, explains O’Brien, who launched his Kangarilla Road brand in 1997.

“The red marks point upwards and could easily be mistaken for the Devil,” he jokes, pouring me a glass of his 2007 The Devil’s Whiskers ($30) at Darlinghurst noshery Verde.

This single-vineyard wine is symbolic of big, bold McLaren Vale shiraz, the variety that’s underpinned Kangarilla Road’s steady jump into the 60,000 plus case category.

O’Brien’s entry-point 2008 Kangarilla Road Shiraz ($20), a blend of more than a dozen McLaren Vale sites, is easily his biggest-seller and it’s easy to see why, delivering palate enriching, drink-now flavours that have struck a chord with his army of customers.

“Since the first vintage in 1998, I haven’t needed to tinker with this wine too much as it’s a very true reflection of what people enjoy about McLaren Vale shiraz,” says the 1984 Roseworthy Agricultural College graduate.

This time around, O’Brien has added a third shiraz to his portfolio, the 2007 Kangarilla Road Q Shiraz ($70), a super-premium, single-vineyard bottling in every possible respect.

The fruit was sourced from the Paxton family’s Quandong Farm vineyard and the fact maturation barrels carried the letter ‘Q’ was the trigger behind the label selection.

“Q shiraz is the result of many years of work in progress,” explains O’Brien, who oversees the business with his promotionally-savvy wife Helen.

The 2007 Q is indeed a wonderfully rich and balanced wine offering substantial cellaring life.

McLaren Vale’s close proximity to the maritime influences of Spencer Gulf is clearly a key factor in the region achieving such spectacular shiraz results.

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2008 Chrismont La Zona Pinot Grigio ($22). Beaut fresh, crisp and complex white from Victoria’s King Valley that’s difficult to put down.

2008 Hewitson Ned and Henry’s Shiraz ($25). Full-bodied, rich and invitingly attractive drop from the Barossa Valley that ticks all the boxes.

2008 Brand’s Laira Cabernet Merlot ($21). Brilliantly blended Coonawarra red that’s collected a string of major awards for obvious reasons.

The Sunday Telegraph, May 30, 2010